It’s Sunday afternoon in Paris. The sky is overcast. There is a light drizzle in the air. The temperature is in the 40s F. I am on the “A” train back to my apartment. Realizing my afternoon and evening are free, I wrack my brain for a new adventure. Looking at the stops on the “A” train, a destination never before explored calls me, Le Château de Vincennes. Steeling my resolve to try something new, I exit the station at Vincennes welcomed by a joyful sight: a Christmas market. The town is alight with the Christmas spirit with families shopping for tasty delights and presents for the soon arriving day. I meander through the kiosks avoiding the throngs to make my way to the edge of town where lies the grandiose royal retreat of Le Château de Vincennes. The walk is about 10 minutes through the center of town where shops selling chocolates and pastries line the street. The aromas of bread and sauteed plates waft from the cafes as they beckon would be customers to a warm respite from the cold and rain.
Leaving the middle of the city opens a wide expanse of trees, grass, and a castle! In awe of the grandiose site, I slowly encircle the chateau, following the border outlined by the moat. The walls tower above me, the moat falls below me. My head must move up and down, side to side, having difficulty viewing the complete chateau at one time from any direction. As I to explore the outward confines of the chateau, I continue to be amazed at the grandeur. The keep, the king’s house, the queen’s house, the walls, the drawbridges take me to a time centuries ago when kings, queens, and their court procession from Paris to this retreat, set-up court a few months at a time. I can hear the horses braying at the strain of the laden loads, the soldiers giving orders to move the king’s entourage into the chateau and prepare for receiving guests and dignitaries at the chateau.
Another time comes into view of prisoners being brought here to answer for their crimes or to be punished for displeasing their king. The look of despair on their faces while in chains to live out their sentence in the cold, damp cells within the keep. Their only respite is to draw on the walls or write letters to their families in hope that one day the injustices of their imprisonments will be righted.
Le Château de Vincennes: On the Eastern edge of Paris is the town of Vincennes which houses a country retreat for many kings and queens of France, Le Château de Vincennes (http://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/). It really is more of a castle than the typical image of a French chateau. It even has a moat the surrounds the complex. The moat is dry now with green grass at the base.
The chateau is large with about a one-kilometer perimeter. There is a keep, a cathedral, two large royals residences, and many support buildings. It took me about two hours to explore the site which included the self-guided tours of the keep and cathedral. The chateau was largely constructed in the 1300s with the location being used by multiple kings from the 1400s to 1600s expanding significantly during these centuries. Of particular note there are two royal residences that mirror each other. One residence for the king and one for the queen.
During the 1700s and 1800s, the keep served as a prison including many of those who displeased the king. The graffiti that remains on the walls of the keep are from the time as a prison. Inside the keep are many rooms that have been restored to what the rooms were used during some of the kings of France.
The cathedral at the chateau was quite large and looked like it could house the entire town at the time.
I recommend Le Chateau of Vincennes due to its rich history, extensively preserved buildings, and variety of buildings. The self-guided tour through the keep was informational with signs in French, English, and Spanish. Plus, it’s only a few minutes train ride from Paris on Metro Line 1 or RER Train A. There are a number of other chateaus surrounding Paris. This visit to Vincennes inspires me to travel out to the periphery of Paris to explore the others.
Until we meet in Paris…
Talenton 