Today we fight for more than the Republic. Today we fight for all our brothers back home.
Captain Rex, “The Clone Wars,” Star Wars
It’s now about the middle of winter in Paris. The highs are in the 40’s Fahrenheit, with lows in the 30s Fahrenheit, brisk with overcast days and drizzly rain from time-to-time. Most stores and cafes are still open at this time with COVID restrictions remaining in effect until the Omicron variant subsides.
Integration Contract with the French Republic: Reminding me that I was in a scene out of “The Clone Wars,” I made a trip to the to set-up my integration contract with the Republic of France at the French Office of Immigration and Integration (OFII) located in the 13th arrondissement. The purpose of this contract is to define what I am required to accomplish in order to renew my visa to France this fall. My initial visa which was a long-term stay visa, expires in October 2022. There are a few requirements needed to renew the visa. Among those are setting up and accomplishing the tasks in the Contract (called le contrat d’intégration républicaine – CIR).
At this appointment, they gave us a written test of French and interviewed each of us. While my writing skills were adequate, my verbal skills were not at an A1 level, yet. As a result, I am required to take 100 hours of French language that they will schedule for me. In addition, I am to take four days of French civic lessons. It actually reminds me of probation, not that I have personal experience with being on probation…
Levels of French Language Proficiency
The personnel at OFII were friendly and helpful including speaking English when it was necessary to understand some instructions. The contract interview was in English as well which helped to really understand what will be required of me in my integration contract. At about five months before my visa expires, I start the process to renew my visa. If I complete everything they listed in my contract, then they said it would be very likely my visa would be renewed. This also includes doing work consistent with my visa (teaching swing dance), making a minimum amount of income (~1200-1500 €/month), and paying taxes on that income.
VISA CONSULTANT, ALLISON FROM YOURFRANCEFORMATION: I would describe French immigration law as not difficult, but very specific. Thankfully, I employ a visa consultant, Allison (https://www.yourfranceformation.com/). She takes me along every step of the way from deciding which type of visa to obtain (about 10 months before leaving for France) through the renewal after a year in France. She made this process straightforward with her help and extensive training material. As long as you are told what to expect and accomplish for each of the steps along the way, the French system and civil employees seem to be effective and helpful.
I have not been in Paris for three months. It’s hard to believe how many friends I have made and adventures I have experienced in this short time. It has taken a lot of patience, for sure, but well worth the frustrations to experience the beauty of Paris and its people.
Happy New Year! Bonne année! I hope your holidays were merry and bright with memorable times with your family and friends. My Christmas and new year were in sunny, warm South Florida with my family in Ft. Lauderdale in the United States. It was a warm respite from cold, rainy Paris for a short 10 days. Everyday included spending time with my family, eating great food, and enjoying the sunshine at my parent’s pool.
Having spent a few months in Paris, France, it was a little strange returning to the US. While everything was familiar, my perspective was quite different. I was not returning from a vacation in Paris, I was going to the US for a vacation. Going through border control and customs as a guest rather than returning “home” felt slightly odd like some form of a twilight zone episode.
COVID Antigen Test: With the COVID restrictions, I had to take an antigen test in Paris the day before I left. Delta’s Ready to Fly website made it easy to upload all my documents and be ready for the flight back to the US. In Paris, since most pharmacies perform the antigen test, it was quick and easy especially since the pharmacies seem to be on every corner. The pharmacy on my block charged me about 30 euros. The whole process took about 30 minutes. They sent me the results electronically within about 30 minutes after the test. I did have to download a pdf of the test results, upload it to the Ready to Fly website, and print out a copy in case anyone asked for it along the way.
The COVID Antigen Test – Results in about 30 minutes
I flew from Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport to Atlanta, Georgia, and then onto Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. All the flights were on time with no issues. Security and border control at CDG took about 45 minutes. At the Atlanta airport, I went through border control, customs, and then through airport security check again which took about an hour total.
The Polar Express: The 10 days with my family was a lot of fun. One of the highlights was a trip on The Polar Express in Miami, Florida (https://miamithepolarexpressride.com/). What a fun time! The actors sang and danced in the train car similarly to the movie. Characters from the movie came through and performed scenes from the movie. We also had a visit from Santa Claus! The train trip was an hour and half long with cookies and hot chocolate.
The Conductor welcoming us to the trainThe Polar ExpressThe Christmas decorations along the luggage shelvesThe singers and dancersThe hot chocolate dancersThe Polar Express
Returning back to France included an Antigen test in Ft. Lauderdale, and completing the attestation paperwork. I uploaded the documents to the Ready to Fly website and had to show all the paperwork at check-in and at each of the flights. Flying back, I went through Atlanta, Georgia and Munich, Germany. There was plenty of time between each of the flights to get some food and relax. All the flights were almost full, on time with few issues. My original seat from Atlanta to Munich didn’t have a video screen that worked, so they moved me to a better seat in an exit row which gave me a lot more legroom and an empty row! I didn’t sleep much on the flights, watching movies and reading to pass the time.
Back at home in Paris: Now that I am back in Paris, it feels like home. Even as I write, it’s raining outside – a common occurrence in winter here. The rain and cold feel like home as I’ve acclimated to the winter here with the right clothes layers and mental attitude. In Paris, it’s now required to wear a mask in most public areas outside in addition to inside areas. They are encouraging and soon requiring a booster shot. Thankfully, I took my booster shot back in September in the US, so I’m all caught up at this time. I also continue French language classes this week at Alliance française (https://www.alliancefr.org/).
Swing dancing: Now that I’m back, I start teaching swing dancing in Paris this month. It will be good to be back in front of a dance class. I will be teaching dance classes in English and perhaps guest teaching with other groups as well. I still can hardly believe that I live in Paris as a swing dance instructor. What a life! Check out my Talenton Dance website (https://talenton.live/talenton-dance/) and Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/talentondance) to keep up-to-date on classes.
It’s Sunday afternoon in Paris. The sky is overcast. There is a light drizzle in the air. The temperature is in the 40s F. I am on the “A” train back to my apartment. Realizing my afternoon and evening are free, I wrack my brain for a new adventure. Looking at the stops on the “A” train, a destination never before explored calls me, Le Château de Vincennes. Steeling my resolve to try something new, I exit the station at Vincennes welcomed by a joyful sight: a Christmas market. The town is alight with the Christmas spirit with families shopping for tasty delights and presents for the soon arriving day. I meander through the kiosks avoiding the throngs to make my way to the edge of town where lies the grandiose royal retreat of Le Château de Vincennes. The walk is about 10 minutes through the center of town where shops selling chocolates and pastries line the street. The aromas of bread and sauteed plates waft from the cafes as they beckon would be customers to a warm respite from the cold and rain.
Leaving the middle of the city opens a wide expanse of trees, grass, and a castle! In awe of the grandiose site, I slowly encircle the chateau, following the border outlined by the moat. The walls tower above me, the moat falls below me. My head must move up and down, side to side, having difficulty viewing the complete chateau at one time from any direction. As I to explore the outward confines of the chateau, I continue to be amazed at the grandeur. The keep, the king’s house, the queen’s house, the walls, the drawbridges take me to a time centuries ago when kings, queens, and their court procession from Paris to this retreat, set-up court a few months at a time. I can hear the horses braying at the strain of the laden loads, the soldiers giving orders to move the king’s entourage into the chateau and prepare for receiving guests and dignitaries at the chateau.
Another time comes into view of prisoners being brought here to answer for their crimes or to be punished for displeasing their king. The look of despair on their faces while in chains to live out their sentence in the cold, damp cells within the keep. Their only respite is to draw on the walls or write letters to their families in hope that one day the injustices of their imprisonments will be righted.
Le Château de Vincennes: On the Eastern edge of Paris is the town of Vincennes which houses a country retreat for many kings and queens of France, Le Château de Vincennes (http://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/). It really is more of a castle than the typical image of a French chateau. It even has a moat the surrounds the complex. The moat is dry now with green grass at the base.
Le Chateau de Vincennes
The chateau is large with about a one-kilometer perimeter. There is a keep, a cathedral, two large royals residences, and many support buildings. It took me about two hours to explore the site which included the self-guided tours of the keep and cathedral. The chateau was largely constructed in the 1300s with the location being used by multiple kings from the 1400s to 1600s expanding significantly during these centuries. Of particular note there are two royal residences that mirror each other. One residence for the king and one for the queen.
Main gate entrance to the ChateauMap of the ChateauThe grounds of the ChateauThe KeepThe King’s ResidenceThe Queen’s ResidenceLe Chateau de Vincennes
During the 1700s and 1800s, the keep served as a prison including many of those who displeased the king. The graffiti that remains on the walls of the keep are from the time as a prison. Inside the keep are many rooms that have been restored to what the rooms were used during some of the kings of France.
The drawbridge entrance to the keepThe drawbridge entrance to the keepOne of the rooms in the keep
The cathedral at the chateau was quite large and looked like it could house the entire town at the time.
The stained glass windows of the Cathedral at the chateau
I recommend Le Chateau of Vincennes due to its rich history, extensively preserved buildings, and variety of buildings. The self-guided tour through the keep was informational with signs in French, English, and Spanish. Plus, it’s only a few minutes train ride from Paris on Metro Line 1 or RER Train A. There are a number of other chateaus surrounding Paris. This visit to Vincennes inspires me to travel out to the periphery of Paris to explore the others.
A friend of mine visited this past weekend. We worked together in the United States. He now lives in Europe working for a European company. He took the train to come visit me for a few days. I was so excited to see him since it’s been a few years since he visited the USA. After he arrived, we had dinner at Place du Tertre, my literal and figurative happy place. It was cold and raining (a very common situation in Paris until March/April). The plaza was sparkling due to the twinkling lights and the wet cobblestones.
Place du Tertre, Paris
As I’ve probably wrote before, Place du Tertre is surrounded on three sides by cafes. In the non-Winter months, the center of the plaza is filled with cafe tables under tents. The plaza is usually very busy during most of the year. This cold and rainy night brought few visitors to the plaza. We ate traditional French food for dinner at La Mère Catherine (https://lamerecatherine.com/): French onion soup, beef tartare, and duck. Then we went over to the La Cremaillere 1900 (https://cremaillere1900.com/) where we ate chocolate cake, drank hot chocolate, and listened to a live band singing traditional French songs. Place du Tertre is just around the corner from the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur which overlooks Paris with breathtaking views.
Basilica of Sacré-Cœur
Later that evening my friend discovered that he was going to need a PCR COVID test in order to return to his country that Sunday (two days later). So, Saturday morning we searched for a laboratory that would accept non-reservations in order to get the test. We traveled to a number of neighborhoods in Paris that I had not ventured to yet which was a lot fun. We discovered a large park near my house (Parc Monceau) that I am sure to revisit in the future.
Once of the entrances to Parc Monceau, a gilded gateOne of the big houses that surround the parkParc Monceau
After we found the laboratory, my friend was able to get his rapid PCR test which he received the results electronically about two hours later. We spent the day exploring Paris, stopping at the Tuileries Christmas market (https://talenton.live/2021/11/29/christmas-markets-in-paris-and-singing-reindeer/), shopped at BHV to see their Swiss Christmas-themed decorations (https://www.bhv.fr), walked through Le Marais (a more medieval section of Paris), and the Bastille area. We stopped at cafes along the way to warm up with hot tea or coffee since it was pretty cold and rainy the entire time.
While looking for used book stores, we stumbled upon Rue Nicolas Flamel. He was a scribe and manuscript seller in France in the 1300s to early 1400s (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Flamel). Later, he was imagined to be an alchemist and mentioned prominently in J. K. Rowling’s Harry Potter series (especially the first book, the Sorcerer’s Stone).
Rue Nicolas Flamel
At the Hotel de Ville (City Hall), there was another Christmas market with pretty Christmas trees and displays along with shops, food, and rides.
Christmas Market at the Hotel de Ville
That evening is where we discovered my gas had been turned off as chronicled in another post (https://talenton.live/2021/12/08/i-have-gas-and-electricity-too/). The next day we went to church, ate lunch at a sandwich shop, and explored Parc Monceau again when it wasn’t raining as much. Parc Monceau has a food pavilion where we ordered hot drinks. I had a hot cider which is my favorite winter drink. The park also has a number of statues with architectural monuments scattered throughout. People were walking with their dogs and children. They even had a footbridge where I am pictured in my cap and heavy coat (picture taken by my friend).
Footbridge in Parc Monceau
In all a grand adventure exploring Paris, eating great food, dealing with the slings and arrows of outrageous situations, and generally having a great time. Next year, I will be visiting my friend’s home in the Alps (when it’s a lot warmer, though).
In response to the continual cold and rain, I recently bought a vest that has heaters which run on battery. It feels so good with just enough heat to keep me comfy warm in the cold, rainy Parisian winter. It is a Barrjee Gilet Vest. It runs on any normal cellphone recharge battery pack or you can buy one of theirs. This vest reminds me of a show on Nickelodeon when I was a kid in the 1970s called, The Tomorrow People. The show was about a groups of kids that developed special powers including teleportation. When they traveled they wore spacesuits that looked like normal clothes wherever they went but were climate controlled. I feel a bit like one of the Tomorrow People who is warm and cozy in the midst of the rain and cold.
I look forward to other visits by my friends and family. Having a guest bedroom with now working heat and hot water beckons you to Paris. Please do come and visit.
When you move into a new apartment, one of the first things they tell you to do is set-up gas, electricity, and other utilities so you have heat and hot water. Well, this is a story about how not to do it. I signed for an apartment in Paris to move-in on November 5th, 2021. Right before I moved in, the company that did the rental insurance offered to set-up my gas and electric. Since they spoke English, I happily walked through the process with the agent. I even received an email from the energy company welcoming me as a new customer. All good so far. So, I’m happily living in my apartment enjoying the heat (using water radiators) and hot water, all heated by a modern natural-gas boiler.
Then December 4 rolls around. This happens to be a month after I moved in. In the morning, I have my hot shower as normal and go out for the day with my friend, Weston, who’s in town for a weekend trip visiting me. We come back to my place later that evening. Weston comes into the living room asking me how to use the shower since the water is bitter cold. My first reaction was of disbelief. I had not had a problem with my hot water so far. Checking the temperature of the water, lo-and-behold it’s really cold (not even lukewarm).
I check on the water heater. The boiler has an error code (EA) that basically means there is no gas. I am confused, confounded even. Then I realize it’s December 4th, a month after moving in. I ask myself, “do I have a contract for my has and electricity?” Was the welcoming email a ruse to lull me into a false sense of security? Did I imagine the email in the first place? Have I been dreaming this whole time in Paris and this is the point in the dream where it becomes a nightmare and the walls start closing in on me and the clown starts laughing from the shower?
I call the energy company, and they do not have any record of my being a customer with them. They are very friendly about it, but cannot really help me since I’m not a customer. Then it begins to click in my brain. I was advised to get a subscription (or contract). I apparently did not, I only have a welcoming email, but no subscription.
Weston and I spend the next hour or so ordering electricity and gas service on line. The electricity subscription (Classic Electricity offer) with TotalEnergies (https://www.totalenergies.fr/) went smoothly. I was notified the service would start December 7th with no break in service. The adventure with gas was another story. I went with EDF (https://www.edf.fr/) for my gas service because they had the best rates for their Gas Advantage plan. The website walked me through the set-up process including a gas usage estimator calculator which I found very straightforward. However, I was without gas and needed an appointment ASAP in order to have heat and hot water.
Once I was able to set-up an appointment for the gas turn-on, the appointment date was December 13th, about a week later. My apartment was getting colder each day by about two degrees Fahrenheit. By December 7, the temperature in the apartment was down to 60 degrees F. I still had no hot water. My washing up included a washcloth dipped in heated water from the stove which was thankfully electricity-powered. One of the nights I decided to stay at a hotel in order to have a hot shower and a warm room to sleep in.
The thoughts going through my head included how weird that in Paris, it was possible to be without heat and hot water. How difficult is was to live this way and how normal this is for many people in the world. Rather than being upset, I decided to be thankful for the electricity and friends in Paris that helped me out at this time. And I continued my attitude of a smile and patience.
Now back to the date of December 13th. Another week was going to make my life much more difficult and probably drive me to live in a hotel. Coming to the rescue was one of the French teachers at my French language school, L’Atelier 9 (https://latelier9.com/). After hearing my story, she happily offered to be in the call with me with EDF to figure out a way to accelerate the appointment. Thankfully, there is an Urgent option where they can come that day for a price of 131 Euros. Since that is a lot cheaper than a hotel or space heaters, I jumped at the option. EDF came by the same day, the evening of December 7th. They had the gas on in no time and now my apartment has heat and hot water again.
This was another lesson learned for me. Be sure to complete signing up for contracts through the entire process. There are usually multiple stages in setting up a contract (customer number/information, subscription, contract, appointments, billing) and you need to be sure you complete them all or you may find your electricity or gas cutoff on a Saturday evening.
Now if I could just my internet service to start working. A topic for another post.
One of the things I enjoy about Paris at this time of year is the Christmas market. Paris has a number of these that run from middle November to early January. They sport Swiss-chalet style booths for hot drinks, food, and gifts. Whenever I walk through them, I smile and feel all warm and cozy inside. Even though there isn’t snow on the ground, there are a lot of wintry scenes throughout the markets to make it feel even colder than it already is at this time of year in Paris. It’s currently staying in the 40Fs for the highs and 30Fs for the lows. Not quite freezing, but heavy coat weather nonetheless.
Tuileries Gardens Christ Market, “La Magie de Noel (The Magic of Christmas)”
The largest Christmas market in Paris is located at Tuileries Gardens along Rue de Rivoli (https://www.parisdiscoveryguide.com/tuileries-garden-christmas-market.html). The market covers the entire length of one side of the gardens and is filled with dozens of rides, food booths, and gift shops. I advise not going during the weekends as it gets packed with wall-to-wall people. The market is filled with the sights, sounds, and smells of Christmas. The Tuileries market is called, “The Magic of Christmas.” Whether you want a hot drink (wine, cider, chocolate), chestnuts over an open fire, traditional French winter food (e.g, sausages, reclettes, sandwiches), or sweets, they have it in droves throughout the market.
A large booth inspired by candle carouselA singing Christmas treeSanta Clause, I know him!The Tuileries Christmas MarketSwiss chalet styled boothsIce skating rinkA Christmas rideSanta!Chestnuts roasting over an open fireOne of the food options: pasta melting the cheese bowlCondiment udder dispensers: what a cool idea!The Tuileries Garden Christmas Market
Of the many choices for drink, food, and sweets, I chose hot chocolate, hot apple cider, cheese sausage, and macaroons (over two visits, of course). They were as charming as they were tasty. I already had roasted chestnuts a few days prior, otherwise I would have tried them here. Roasted chestnuts are certainly a unique taste. It took a few before I decided I kind of liked them. There are a lot of chestnut trees around Paris, so this is a local delicacy in addition to the Christmas song origins.
There are a lot of choices for gifts, too. They had jewelry, children’s toys, leather goods, and many other options. I was able to take care of a little Christmas shopping while I was here. And there are a couple of audioanimatronic displays of Christmas songs or poems. My favorite was the three singing reindeer. They were activated by pressing a big blue button and sang many different carols.
Reindeer trio singing “Carol of the Bells”
I highly recommend going to one of these Christmas markets, especially if you haven’t been to one before. There are other Christmas markets around Paris of varying sizes and opening dates. I really suggest you bundle up at this time of year in Paris in order to stay warm.
This is one of the few Thanksgivings spent away from my family in Florida. No matter where I’ve lived, I usually fly back to Ft. Lauderdale or Jacksonville to spend the day with family. It was a little less frequent when I lived in California and of course when I spent six months in Kabul, Afghanistan. I love spending time with my family and will definitely be doing a video chat with them this Thursday.
Living away from the USA as I do now is a stark reminder that every country has their own holidays that are not always shared with other countries around the world. In Paris, they celebrate Halloween here and then start getting ready for Christmas. They do not have an intervening family holiday. Armistice Day is November 11 which is similar to Veteran’s Day in the USA but doesn’t have the same level of family gathering as Easter, Christmas, or New Years.
However, the French have adopted one American Thanksgiving tradition, “Black Friday.” Here in France, though, it goes for a week or two at the end of November instead of a couple of days around Thanksgiving. It feels very weird to see “Black Friday” sale signs plastered in all the stores. They use the English words, too, not a translation. In addition, I’ve also seen “Cyber-Monday,” in English, too. It is remarkable how much impact the US culture and economy has made on France.
Thankfulness in Paris: How I am celebrating Thanksgiving in Paris? I did put a Christmas tree (all IKEA components) since I often decorate for Christmas in November anyways. My family will be doing a video call this Thursday from where they are in the USA. In addition, I am very thankful for being in Paris: for those that were instrumental in getting me here; for those that sent me off to Paris with multiple going away parties; for those I have met and become friends with here; for the sights and sounds I am experiencing in this beautiful city.
My Christmas tree (all from IKEA)
I wish you all a happy Thanksgiving however you are celebrating this year.
This past Sunday, I spent the afternoon and evening at Disneyland Paris catching a few rides, getting dinner at Captain Jack’s restaurant, and enjoying the Christmas decorations. I really enjoy having an annual pass to Disneyland given it’s only about an hour away by the “A” train from Paris city center. They do most of their shows and rides in both English and French making it easy to understand most everything. My favorite time of year at any of the Disney parks is at Christmastime. They go all out to show the red and green (and blue) through lights, displays, and music. Walking around listening to Christmas music filled me with wonder and awe of the joy of Christmas.
Disneyland entrance in front of the railroadAll the buildings were decorated for ChristmasMe in front of the castle all alight for ChristmasMain Street USA
Mickey Mouse and gang Christmas sing-along: There was also a show where Mickey Mouse and the gang was on stage to sing a number of Christmas songs asking the audience to join in. It was in a combination auditorium and dinner theater. So much fun!
Mickey and Friends Christmas singalong
Ratatouille: One of the newer sections of Disneyland is the Ratatouille ride area. They had a number of winter French stands set-up selling hot drinks and Christmas pastries. There is also a restaurant in the theme of Chez Remy’s which I will visit one of these days. The Ratatouille ride is a free-moving ride where you experience being chased around the restaurant from the view of the rats. So cool – or rather, “hot,” since one of the stops is under the oven in the kitchen.
Ratatouille ride area
Captain Jack’s Restaurant: This time I ate at a restaurant at the Pirates of the Caribbean ride called “Captain Jack’s.” It’s very similar to the Blue Bayou restaurant at Disneyland in Anaheim. I enjoyed Caribbean-themed food with lots of seafood (mahi mahi and shrimp) and pineapple juice drinks. The restaurant had unique Christmas decorations that took advantage of the treasure theme while guests overlook the waterway where the Pirates of the Caribbean boats float by.
Pirates of the Caribbean boat gliding by the restaurantTreasure Christmas decorationsTreasure Christmas decorationsChristmas treesLamps lit the restaurantCaptain Jack’s restaurant
Even though I am almost 50 years ago, I still smile when I see characters in the park. Fond memories of my childhood come back at these sightings. This time I saw Geppetto, Pluto, and Tigger, in addition to the gang at the Christmas sing-along.
Geppetto!Tigger was working the till at the store
I’ll be returning at least once a month over the next year to enjoy the place over and over again.
A bank is a place that will lend you money if you can prove that you don’t need it.
Bob Hope
I wait with baited breadth. The tension is palpable as I enter the establishment. The manager asks me to come into his office. I slowly pad along with my landlady at my side. After offering us a seat, I sit down while trying to maintain a steady rhythm in my breathing. A drop of sweat slowly forms on my forehead and threatens to drip down my nose onto the desk in front of me. My palms are clammy. My head is spinning. I’m in a fog teetering between hope and despair. Will they say yes this time or will this be another in a long series of disappointments? How my emotions ebb and flow so over this potential triumph or crushing defeat. Am I being interviewed for a job? Am I in trouble over an unpaid bill, an overdraft charge? No, I am applying for a bank account in France.
It is true as everyone told me that opening a bank account in France is an illusive, but necessary step to live in France long-term. Even though not strictly legal, most companies in France request a French bank account to pay bills (like cell phone and utilities). While it is possible to use other European banks, obtaining a French bank account is one of those rights of passage.
I had heard a lot of horror stories of the extreme difficulty in obtaining a French bank account. How that many of the banks simply say “Non.” There are many reasons why this is difficult in France. French banking laws require a high degree of confidence in the bank account holder to be who they say they are and that the account will be used for the stated purposes of the account. The local bank manager is also the primary arbiter of granting accounts. This means an applicant needs to prove their identity, their income sources, their residency, their stability, and any other factors the bank manager deems important. Additionally, for Americans, the US tax law places a lot of burden on foreign banks to keep track of transactions and report them to the IRS. This induces a significant financial burden on the banks.
Due to all of these constraints, I was turned down by at least five on-line French banks and a couple of brick-and-mortar banks. I was beginning to wonder if I were ever going to be successful. Then one glorious day, my landlord offered to introduce me to their bank (CIC in this case: https://www.cic.fr/). She helped set-up the appointment with the bank and went with me for the beginning of the appointment. Thankfully, the bank manager also spoke English.
And now I have a French bank account. It’s a Christmas miracle! I will only use the bank account for depositing French income and paying French bills. And CIC provided a bank account with a minimal monthly fee (about 8 Euros/month). I will still use my US travel credit card for most of my day-to-day expenses since I have income from my US pension. But this is one major hurdle completed.
So, the moral of the story is: it’s makes such a difference for a French citizen to introduce you to a French bank manager. This gets over the biggest hurdle every bank manager has to consider: why should they trust you to bank with them. I know it sounds a bit backwards, but the French banking system is very different from other countries. I also noticed there is not really a similar credit scoring service to the FICO score (which originally stood for Fair, Isaac and Company). This makes every account someone is looking to open as if they had to prove their credit worthiness each time.
Here is what I had to provide to open this bank account:
My passport (to scan in)
My visa (to scan in)
Signature sample (yes really)
Last three months of my US bank account statements
Apartment lease rental agreement
Utility statements or attestations (internet, gas, electric)
Letters of recommendations (yes really)
US Form W-9 (IRS tax form)
Etranger registration confirmation
And now I have a bank account that will probably only process a few hundred dollars a month having provided evidence that I don’t really even need the bank account in the first place. I love France! With this and setting up my cell phone to a more permanent service, almost all of the initial big hurdles are completed. It’s now been 5 weeks in Paris. I am humbled and thankful for all those who have helped me prepare and complete these difficult tasks. I have to depend on others regularly to be successful with a smile and patience.
The greatest thing you’ll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return.
Nature Boy, Ahbez Eden
This trip was something like a subplot to the movie “Red.” I traveled to Brussels, Belgium, this week in order to pick up a “package” at a lonely US military post in the farmland just outside Brussels, Belgium. Never mind the “package” was some prescriptions needing refilling, and this is the closest US military pharmacy to Paris.
It started out like any other spy novel. It was a dark and stormy night… Or rather, it was a cold, crisp day in Paris. Before taking a bullet train to Brussels at Gare du Nord, I picked up a baguette sandwich, curry chicken, with a Coke Zero and a chocolate eclair, because it was Tuesday. Eating in the train terminal, I contemplated what had brought me to this point. A month in Paris and already I needed to return to Brussels. A city where eight years ago, a “ship passing in the night” romance still haunted my memory.
My mind went back to eight years ago to that fateful night. Visiting Brussels for work, I met someone while in the city. We said our pleasantries, but could not avoid wondering if there was perhaps something more, a spark of romantic attraction. We began a conversation in a combination of French and English. As the evening progressed we spoke of “many things, fools and kings.” We had a wonderful evening of talking and then walking around the city. As the evening progressed, we made an unspoken choice. We did not share our names. We both knew that since I was in Brussels for a couple of days, it would have meant a long-term relationship. We both thought that might spoil the magic of this night. We took the metro to the fork in our destinations. One to work, one to the hotel. We said our goodbyes, one final embrace of our lives together.
As I sit in Gare du Nord in Paris eating my curry chicken, these memories come back to flood my mind. I often wonder what if we had shared our names and contact information. Would the long distance relationship had worked? Over these past eight years, I remember that evening fondly and smile. It was your stereotypical ships-passing-in-the-night experience which I will always cherish.
An announcement beaks into my reminiscing: the bullet train to Brussels is ready for boarding (https://www.thalys.com). We pass the countryside at breakneck speed, taking only an hour-and-a-half to get to Brussels Gare Midi.
My restaurant this evening is Le Cirio (https://www.thefork.be/restaurant/le-cirio-r201555). A quintessential Victorian-style restaurant started in 1886, the food and decor was amazing. I had the Flemish beef stew, a traditional dish that warmed by cold innards. The meal included a hot chocolate and french fries. The Belgique are all about their french fries (or rather, pommes frites). I heard a British tourist remark that Brussels might as well be Liverpool with all the french fry restaurants in the city. Apparently in Liverpool they enjoy their “chips” as much as the Belgians enjoy their “pommes frites.”
Le Cirio Restaurant
Back to my “Red” subplot. I woke up the next morning wondering If my instructions to the pick up place was going to get me there. I hadn’t ventured outside of the city of Brussels, so I was unsure how transfers and bus stops would be. Plus, I had to walk 15 minutes along a country road to the destination. I had come all this way. There was no turning back now. I picked up my courage, downloaded a bunch of Google Maps to my phone and started out to meet my contact. Thankfully the metro ticket kiosk had an English setting. The trip on the Metro started out with going in the wrong direction, quickly corrected at the next stop. The transfer to the bus was more challenging. The information in Google Maps wasn’t quite right, so I had to improvise and study the bus schedules posted on a couple of bus stops to find the right one. Fortunately, the bus stop did have a screen with updates of when each bus was arriving. I loaded the bus which indicated taking me to the right place. I realized after a while that the bus did not stop at each bus stop which threw my counting off. So, with my one good long distance eye, I read the small print on each of the bus stop signs along the way to know where I was. What I didn’t mention so far was that my phone service in France does not extend to Belgium. I did not know this until we crossed into Belgium yesterday. So, I lived from Wi-Fi to Wi-Fi to download maps and directions wherever I was going.
After about 30 minutes on the bus to the outskirts of Brussels, I stepped off at my stop. What I didn’t realize was the stop was next to farmland. Fields as far as I could see of fields laying fallow after the fall harvest. Was this the right place? How could the pick-up point be in the middle of farmland? My pulse elevated, I embarked on the road my instructions directed. After about 5 minutes, the sidewalk ended. Remembering my training, I walked on the side where the cars were coming towards me, careful to walk on the fields when I wasn’t sure the cars were giving me sufficient berth. I turned left where the instructions told me to, still going deeper into farmland. After what seemed like an unusually long time to be walking through farmland, I finally spot it. Like an oasis in the desert, the encampment appeared. After showing my credentials, they let me in like a safe house. I received the package from my contact without incident and walked back to the bus station.
After I got back to Brussels, I could finally breath easier. Needing to calm down after the pick-up, I went to Brussels Grand Place and ate in the sunshine.
Getting back to the train station was a little difficult since one of the metro lines was down due to an obstruction in the track. I did finally make it back to the train station, boarded the bullet train back to Paris, and got the package home safely. This was a wonderful adventure reliving old cherished memories and making new ones including visiting the farmland outside Brussels.
I am truly enjoying my time in Paris so far. I’ve met a lot of people, danced a lot, seen a lot of sights, and checked off a lot of those pesky things you need to do when you move to a new country. Many adventures still await.
Talenton 