Brian K. Bailey

Louvre Museum and the Sewers of Paris

It was in the sewers of Paris that Jean Valjean found himself.
Les Miserables by Victor Hugo

Having been to Paris many times, I’ve been to almost all of the usual sightseeing locations. About 15 years ago or so, I started visiting the secondary list of sights that gets into the less well-known, secret, or local-frequented spots. This post talks about two extremes of this list: the Louvre Museum and the Sewers of Paris. I spent about an hour in Louvre to see two areas that I find very interesting to me. One is the displays of the original walls of the city below the Louvre and another is a painting that has always intrigued me from one of my first visits. Then I spent a little time taking a tour of the Parisian sewers – a fun-filled, informative journey into the underside of Paris which channels all the water waste from Paris to water treatment plants.

Louvre Museum: In the basement of the Louvre Museum (https://louvre.fr), in the exhibit “Pavillon de l’Horlage (Clock Pavilion),” the museum displays the changes and growth of the Louvre complex over time from its initial start in 1190 AD to today. The Louvre’s initial purpose was to protect the city of Paris from English and Norman invasions as a defensive fort and walls with a moat. In this basement exhibit, many of the original fort, walls, and moat are rebuilt to show what the fort looked like at the beginning. This part of the Louvre fascinates me the most in the museum because of its size and history.

Requisite selfie in front of the Louvre Museum

One painting within the Louvre caught my attention on my first trip when I was a mere lad of 13. While I did go see the Mona Lisa, this painting, though, intrigued me much more. I think it reminded me of myself as a contemplative, intense boy. Every one of my visits to the Louvre includes a stop at this painting.

“Portrait of a young man holding a statuette” by Bronzino

Underneath the Louvre Museum, is a mall, The Carrousel du Louvre (https://www.carrouseldulouvre.com). Here displays an impressive assortment of high end shops, American stores, Starbucks, and a food court. I stopped here to get some lunch and some delicious macaroons from Laduree, one of the premier macaroon shops in Paris. My favorite macaroon flavor is lavender (not always available, unfortunately) with a silky smooth consistency after an initial subtle crunch. Average macaroons tend to be a little gritty and chalky. This is one of the indications to me how good a macaroon is. In this shopping center is the bottom part of the glass pyramid from of the Louvre as well as a number of shops you would see in any major shopping center in the United States. There is a lot more in common between Paris and the US today then when I first started visiting Paris in the 1980s. In this shopping center is Fragonard (https://www.fragonard.com). A few years ago, I discovered a cologne from the perfumerie, Fragonard, called Diamant (Diamond). It’s my everyday cologne. Many of you have remarked how well it smells.

Musée des Égouts: The final stop was to the Sewers of Paris (https://musee-egouts.paris.fr). These miles of underground tunnels channel the waste water of Paris to water treatment plants. Paris is a very large city with large amounts of water flowing from storm drains, buildings, and apartments all over the city. This is one of those places where you learn about the civil engineering marvel of these sewers and how the city was able to prosper as a result. The smell is unique but not that bad once you get used to it after being down there a few minutes. The museum exhibits the history and function of the sewers. There are guided tours as well.

A clip of waste water flowing through the sewers

Well, onto new adventures as I move into my apartment this weekend and start the journey of setting up utilities, a French bank account, and registering my business with the French authorities.

Until we meet in Paris…

Les Passages de Paris (The Covered Passage Shopping Markets of Paris)

The passages are a peaceful form of the crowd. It controls itself better there, it stretches out; it warms itself up by rubbing against the walls. The pace of the pedestrians no longer slows down humbly, winding around the line of cars like ivy on oak trees. They no longer wade through the mud or the elements. The passage shelters them and envelops them in an almost domestic gentleness. It is a street that gathers itself together, or an interior that constantly undoes itself.
JULES ROMAINS « Puissances de Paris » – 1911

One of the most interesting places to go for shopping and eating are in the covered passages of Paris. In these privately owned covered walkways between two streets, shops and restaurants line the tight pathway with apartments and hotels rising above them. These passages are also known as arcades. While there were about 60 of these passages built during the 19th century, only about 15 of these still exist to this day. The city government of Paris produced a pamphlet which explains their history and which ones are still open today (https://web.archive.org/web/20150216013205/http://www.paris.fr/viewmultimediadocument?multimediadocument-id=120848).

In these glass-covered passages, you can find old fashioned bookstores, nick-knack shops, traditional french restaurants, and many international restaurants as well. I recently spent a day exploring a number of these passages to look at the shops and restaurants that have a lot of character and charm.

I went to Passage Jouffroy (9th), Passage Verdeau (3rd), Passage des Panoramas (2nd), and Passage Molière (3rd). The passages made me feel like I was walking through 19th century Paris. Cafe tables lined the tight pathways. Bookstores displayed hundreds of books on tables as well as inside the stores. Nick-knack shops invited shoppers to explore old Paris with exotic home decor. It was a good thing I haven’t moved into my long-term apartment yet, or I would have been sorely tempted to pick up a few items.

Each passage had it’s own unique character and various shapes of the pathways. Usually the passages zigzagged between buildings and often made a little maze with interesting finds in out-of-the way corners.

Even though cafes throughout Paris usually have tables lined up outside the restaurants along the sidewalks, the passages seem even more cramped as the pathways are already only a few people wide. With tables on both sides of some passages, there was a lot of waiting for others to pass. In order to rest my traveled feet, I ended up getting a good appetizer of croquette de cheddar, a burger, and fries at One&One restaurant (https://www.oneandonerestaurants.com/), 7 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris France.

Many shops and restaurants were decorated for Holloween (One&One restaurant)

The passages, though, have felt the effect of COVID with some shops and restaurants now closed. Passage Molière, for instance, only had one place open, a hotel. The rest of the passage was a series of empty shops.

It has been fun looking for the more unique or fascinating corners of Paris. I will continue to explore this city and share with you these adventures.

Until we meet in Paris.

River Cruise on the Seine River and Mini-Statue of Liberty

Found an Apartment! This week I found an apartment and signed the lease. It’s a two-bedroom, one-bath flat on the second floor (called the first floor in Europe). Move in date is November 5th. I’m very excited to have a long-term place to live which allows a lot of other tasks to start like registering for the French health system. The flat is in an older building (Haussmann style). It also comes with a “cave” or basement. I look forward to hosting my visiting friends in my place when you visit Paris. The flat is located in the eighth arrondissement, about a 5 minute walk to Champs Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.

In order to be selected for the apartment, I had to prove my financial worthiness through my income, savings statement, last three months of apartment statements, letters of recommendation, and a guarantee insurance. Renters insurance is required, of course, but it had to be with a French insurance company. I went with ECA Assurances (https://eca-assurances.com/) because it was recommended by a number of expatriates in Paris and one of the least expensive renters insurance. I also needed to be able to pay in Euros. I am using Wise bank (https://wise.com) where I can transfer funds from US Dollars to Euros and then pay in Euros. The fees and exchange rates are about the best I’ve seen so far. Many companies in France really want you to be using French businesses and French bank accounts. So, I’ll probably need to get a French bank account one of these days, too. I’m looking into Hello Bank (https://www.hellobank.fr) since it’s an online French bank and inexpensive.

Eiffel Tower and Seine River Cruise: This past week, I spent a day visiting the Eiffel Tower and taking a boat ride on the Seine River. The Eiffel Tower is one of the more recognized sights of Paris. It can be seen from most rooftops throughout the city giving a good help for direction around the city. I took a boat cruise (Bateaux Parisiens) along the Seine River that gives a guided tour of the sights with a little bit of history for each. I listened to some of the commentary, but ended up spending most of the time just looking at the sights. The guided tour works through either your phone (Wi-Fi onboard) or via handsets inside the boat in about 14 different languages. I always enjoy a leisurely boat ride along the Seine to calm my nerves and take in the larger view of the city.

Mini-Statue of Liberty: In 1986, the United States gifted a smaller version of the Statue of Liberty to the city of Paris to commemorate the centennial of the statue in New York City harbor. The statue is on a long skinny island in the Seine River with a beautiful promenade along the island. The leaves have started to change colors, becoming shades of yellow at this time.

Another Mouse: I see mice everywhere! Well, at least two real mice so far and the Disney ones at Disneyland. On the island to see the Statue of Liberty, I saw my second real-life mouse. He was hanging out where I rested for a few minutes searching for food around the benches. He spent about 10 minutes with me, enjoying the sunshine and 60-degree weather. I was able to get a few pictures and videos of this little guy. He was so cute.

A little mouse (not in a restaurant this time…)

Bastille: I also spent some time at the Place de la Bastille where the infamous Bastille prison used to stand. Now it’s a large square with a tall statue in the middle. There also happens to be a canal that runs under the street and plaza. In the open areas, there where lots of boats anchored to the shore. A very peaceful place in the late evening.

My life is filled here with meeting new people, swing dancing, sightseeing, and setting up all the things needed to live in Paris. More adventures await!

Until we meet in Paris…

Made it to Disneyland Paris (and more swing dancing)!

Well, I did it. I accomplished one of my major bucket list items – an annual pass to Disneyland Paris! It’s only about 45 minutes away by train to the outskirts of Paris. Disneyland Paris is made of two park plus a downtown area. I spent the day at Disneyland (Magic Kingdom) exploring the park and riding a number of old favorites like Pirates of the Caribbean, Haunted Mansion, and Snow White. When I lived in Los Angeles, Disneyland was only about 45 minutes away there, too. I really do like living in a large city with a Disneyland that close.

More Swing Dancing: I also went to a swing dance on Friday evening at a new location for me. The dancing styles, music, and attire was very similar to swing dances in the USA. Another example of friendly, welcoming swing dancers in Paris.

Wonder Follow 2021: This weekend I attended Wonder Follow 2021 (https://www.wonderfollow.com/). On Saturday, the guest instructor was from Brazil and spoke English which was very helpful for me. On Sunday, the instructor spoke in French, so my partner translated for me. The weekend primarily was for follows, and the follows were responsible for bringing their own lead. I met my partner by answering a post on Facebook. It was a lot of fun and did include some instruction of being a better lead by paying closer attention to the follow and incorporating her style and personality into each dance.

Apartment hunt update: I am still on the hunt for a long term apartment in Paris. I took a tour of another one today. Here’s hoping it works out.

Now onto more swing dancing and becoming familiar with the city I now call home (that’s Paris if you were wondering).

Until we meet in Paris…

First entire conversation in French (and I almost understood every word) and Rodin Museum

“Bonjour, je veux mon livre.”
Winifred, Hocus Pocus

Bonjour from Paris! A major milestone happened today. I had an entire conversation in French and almost understood every word. It was with my doctor’s office here in Paris, over the phone nonetheless. This gives me hope that once I take French conversation classes and spend some time here, I should become fluent. I do already dream in French occasionally, but my vocabulary in those dreams is limited to simple words and phrases.

First Doctor’s Appointment: This week I did go to my first Doctor’s appointment in France. The hospital, Hôpital Cochin in the 15th arrondissement, hosts the eye doctor my USA eye doctor referred me to. Even with a mix up with the appointment, he saw me that morning in between his other patients. He explained the four doctors I will see regularly in Paris: a general practitioner (or primary care physician), an optometrist (for regular eye checkups), his specialist office (for annual check-ups), and an internal medicine doctor. I definitely appreciate his time in explaining this all to me since the French medical system is very different from the USA system.

Musée Rodin: One of my favorite gardens to visit is located at the Musée Rodin (https://www.musee-rodin.fr/). It contains a beautiful garden encased in high walls so it’s generally quiet. The artist, Auguste Rodin, produced many bronze sculptures including “The Thinker.” Most of my trips to Paris included some time in these gardens. Since I will be going there a lot, I bought their annual pass for 30 euros: well worth it for the tranquil gardens.

Wonder Follow 2021: This weekend is the Wonder Follow 2021 (https://www.wonderfollow.com/) swing dance workshop in Paris. I will be a leader for one of the followers for a couple of classes. I’m excited to be participating in the swing scene in Paris which appears to be alive and well this fall.

Paris Fashion: As I’ve observed every-day men’s Parisian fashion, one of the characteristics is they tend to use solid colors, rather than stripes or prints. I found a men’s store that is filled with brilliant, yet solid, colored outfits including bow ties (https://www.thenines.fr/). So, it looks like a subset of my American clothes will fit in nicely until I need to buy more clothes here.

So, moving right along with my integration into the Parisian life.

Until me meet in Paris…

Éblouie par la Nuit (Dazzled by the Night)

One of my favorite French singers is Navii. One of his songs is “Éblouie par la Nuit” where he bikes around Paris singing how much he is dazzled by the nighttime views of Paris (while singing about a love in his life, of course).

“Éblouie par la Nuit” by Navii

When I walk around Paris, I, too, am dazzled by the city lights, the people walking by, the cars, the sights. I spent an evening on Champs-Élysées walking up and down the avenue enjoying the sights and sounds of the city. This is where Arc de Triomphe is located. I visit this area almost every time I’ve been to Paris. It’s so lively with lots of people shopping, eating, and taking selfies in front of the Arc de Triomphe.

On this avenue is a large selection of stores and restaurants with high end shops like Louis Vuitton and Dior. But, it is egalitarian in that there is a McDonalds, Quick, and Five Guys along side La Duree (a high end pastry restaurant – Macaroons!). I find that when walking among the neighborhoods of Paris, my personal cares and concerns fade as I focus on the spectacle and the stories of those around me. Who are these families walking along the Champs-Élysées? Where do they come from? I listen to a little of their conversations and some are in French, some in English, and many other languages – Italian, Arabic. And each has an entire story to tell, and they are all in this moment enjoying an evening in Paris trying to get the best selfie angle.

The requisite selfie in front of the Arc de Triomphe

I ate dinner at Bistro des Champs where I enjoyed Parmesan-encrusted ravioli and yellow chicken with french fries. A lot of the menu items in Paris come with french fries. I have always found that a little odd that the French like french fries so much. But, “C’est la vie.” Maybe they do that to cater to tourists, although a very basic dish in France is peppered steak with french fries.

Ratatouille! Did I tell you I like the dish, Ratatouille? Well, I do, and you’ll probably hear it again in these posts. While in the movie by the same name it’s called a peasant’s dish, I’ve found it be a savory combination of red sauce and vegetables. I’ve sauteed fish with Ratatouille on the side twice now since I’ve been in Paris. It will probably be a weekly dish for me in Paris.

Le Metro! I love the metro in Paris. I did get a Navigo monthly pass which lets me get on all over the city included in the cost. I love taking the metro and RER trains all over Paris to get around. I read a lot on the metro to pass the time. Many of the signs and stations are in Art Nouveau style. I read up on the differences between art nouveau, art deco, and Arts and Crafts, because it’s important to know these things in Paris (https://canvas.saatchiart.com/lifestyle/inspiration/art-deco-art-nouveau-arts-and-crafts-whats-the-difference). I enjoy looking at the architecture to see the artistry that went into the stations in Paris. One of the metro stops on Champs-Élysées is Franklin D. Roosevelt. The train platform is in Art Deco style.

Tomorrow I visit my Parisian eye doctor and tour a flat to potentially rent long-term. Talk to you in a few days.

Until we meet in Paris…

How I made a large profit selling my house in Manassas, Virginia, USA

Many of you have asked me how I did so well selling my home in Manassas, Virginia, USA, earlier this year. Once I decided it was time to sell, I talked with my real estate agent (Dawn Tollus: https://www.facebook.com/DawnTollusTheMarquisGroup). Dawn advised me when the best time to sell for my home and market. For me, it happened that the end of February 2021 was the peak time to put my home on the market before all of the spring homes started to become available. The previous year, I asked Dawn’s advice on whether to fill in the pool. She advised me to put that money into improved landscaping since many buyers were looking for pools. The improved landscaping (retaining wall and new front patios) are in the video below.

In addition, Dawn provides a showing consultant as part of her services. The consultant went through the house, inside and out, and listed what to fix, paint colors, furniture layout, and anything else that would get my house ready to sell. Ultimately, I needed to make the house a neutral showcase. All the unique paint colors that I loved had to go. Many of the fixtures were replaced with more neutral designs (less style-specific).

I followed Dawn’s and the showing consultant’s advice. Thankfully, my niece, Sam, helped me tremendously as we repainted all the walls and doors, put hardwood floors in the bedrooms, replaced many of the light fixtures and hanging mirrors, swapped shutters with black ones, painted the front door black, and other changes throughout the house. An electrician installed ceiling lights in all the bedrooms. Tile cleaners cleaned the tiles and recolored the grout where needed. The house exterior, deck, and outdoor concrete were pressure-washed. My niece, Alyssa, helped one weekend, and my friends, Jeremy and Frank, also lent a couple of evenings.

As a result of following the sage advice and putting in the right hard work, my house looked like a model home. The intent was to make any buyer feel like they had to have the house, whether wife, husband, or child. Below is the showing video Dawn’s real estate company made.

Showing video for my home in Manassas, Virginia.

When my house went on the market, we had about 66 scheduled showings over the weekend and about 22 offers. As a result of the buying frenzy, many of the offers had no contingencies (meaning no required inspection or bank appraisal) and escalation clauses. The escalation clause allows the buyer to offer a base amount and increase the price until a certain maximum. I was flabbergasted. It still amazes me how high the offers came in at.

(Note: When accepting a contract for a price higher than a bank appraisal would come in at, it’s imperative that the buyer demonstrate they have the cash on hand to cover the difference between their prospective loan and the selling price, preferably in some form of escrow.)

THE RESULT: The house sold for $81,000 over the asking price and about $200,000 over the median price for homes in the neighborhood! As many improvements had been made to the house over 14 years, all investments were more than paid back in the final sale price. I cannot thank Dawn, her team, and my niece, Sam, enough for all they did to bring about a miraculous result. I highly recommend you get a good real estate agent and follow their advice to maximize the sale price and minimize contingencies.

Other posts will talk more specifically on the preparation process as well as how to get rid of excess furniture and belongings.

I saw Rémy today! And went to a swing dance.

While exploring Paris the last couple of days, I did go to a swing dance last night. The group was very welcoming. I had a great time meeting new people. The style, dress, and music was very similar to US swing dances. It was very easy to get involved. I’m going to be attending a lot of swing dances to get to know the dancers, studios, and swing scene in Paris.

A visit to the Galeries Lafayette revealed it to be as posh and grand as ever. The multi-building store on Boulevard Haussmann never disappoints with its large selection of ladies fashion, men fashion, kids fashion, housewares, and home goods. The domed ceiling is always a sight to behold. The glasswalk was unfortunately closed :(, “exceptionally closed.” Not sure what that means, may be similar to “strenuously object.” I took care of some shopping before heading to the terrace…

Amazingly, this was my first time to the terrace top floor of the Galeries Lafayette. Up here, there is a commanding view of almost all of Paris. The Palais Garnier Opera House is right across the street. The Eiffel Tower stands prominently to the right. The city skyline always takes my breath away. And for about 30 Euros, you too can have a Paris skyline on your wall. In the souvenir section of Galeries Lafayette, they sell the skylines of major cities around the world as a single line of metal shaped with the landmarks for each city.

Cellphone: There are many things to get once you move to Paris and many of them require a permanent address, a French bank account, and a utility bill statement. Cellphone service is one of those. I went to Orange store today to get a sim card. In order to have the service contract, it’ll have to wait until I’m situated in a long-term flat. So, I went with their Holiday prepaid cellphone service for the time being. It will work fine for the next couple of weeks.

Metro Card: I am still in the search for how to get a long-term metro card (Navigo pass). The latest is I have to go to one of the larger stations, bring a passport photo, and probably present my permanent address, a French bank account, and a utility bill statement. Wish me luck. It’s my adventure for tomorrow. As a back-up, I’ll get a month pass.

This is the story of moving to another country. There are a lot of things to get, but have back-ups or temporary workarounds since many times you will not be successful on the first try. While it can be frustrating, I’m learning the art of how to ask for the next best thing for what I need. Whether that’s a temporary service, a required deposit, or other stop-gap measure.

Now on to Remy. Today while grabbing a baguette sandwich, I saw a small mouse in the restaurant (not actually Remy, unfortunately). I wasn’t even eating Ratatouille. It scurried under the counter after being seen by a couple of people. The servers were rather nonplussed, though. I won’t mention the restaurant since I’ve been told mice are quite prevalent in Paris. C’est la vie!

Speaking of Ratatouille, I did saute some fish with ratatouille as the garnish at my AirBnB. It was amazingly good. It did bring some “perspective” in how good french food is. I am looking forward to continuing my culinary adventure in Paris.

Until we meet in Paris…

All my luggage has finally come home (and visiting the Latin Quarter)

Well, after two days all my luggage has now arrived. I’ve not been able to venture out much since I’ve had to wait for my luggage to be delivered. Now that all my clothes are here, I realized I don’t have much warm clothes. Oh well, guess I’ll be doing some shopping to update my wardrobe for the fall/winter in Paris. Thankfully, it doesn’t get much below freezing here in Paris during the winter.

I went to the Latin Quarter last night to get some good food: an omelette and a savory crepe. I love walking around the area since it’s right next to Notre Dame Cathedral and a lively night spot. This is where Caveau de la Huchette is located. Caveau de la Huchette has jazz bands from around the world and swing dancing in basement. It has a speakeasy feel with crowded rooms, tight hallways, and a small dance floor. Since they are open, I’ll be going back when a swing band is playing.

A view of Notre Dame where only the front part of the church is visible

The Latin Quarter is where a number of universities are located, hence the name due Latin language studies. It’s filled with restaurants and shops that cater mostly to tourists. However, the prices aren’t bad and there is a variety of food (French, Italian, Greek, Turkish, Kurdish, Thai, and American, for example). I stopped at La Petite Bouclarie which specializes in omelettes and crepes. My dinner was a ham/cheese omelette and a ham/cheese/mushroom savory crepe. While I do enjoy sweet crepes, I actually prefer savory ones. Dinner was good accompanied with my usual peach iced tea and a bottle of water.

Getting used to timezone change is taking a few days. I am getting around eight hours of sleep a day but with a few blocks during the day. It takes me about a week to fully acclimate to a new timezone.

Tonight I’m starting to go swing dancing! Lindy Hop Paris (https://www.facebook.com/groups/LindyHopParis) and Quais de Seine danse (https://www.facebook.com/groups/191669634330805) list most of the dance events in Paris on Facebook. And there’s a calendar here: http://swingout.free.fr/.

Well, now off to find some warmer clothes.

Until we meet in Paris…

Arrived in Paris today

Paris is always a good idea.
Audrey Hepburn

Bonjour from Paris! I arrived this morning from Newark, New Jersey. The flight was mostly empty which allowed pretty much everyone to have an entire row to themselves. It’s been many years since I’ve been on a plane so empty. Because of all the mix-ups with the flights to Newark and Paris, two of my bags did not make it to Paris this morning. The United luggage representative was friendly and helpful in finding these bags were still in Newark and delivering them on the next flight to Paris this evening. They will deliver the bags to my flat. It’s a good thing I packed my essentials in my carry-on.

I decided to take a taxi from Charles de Gaulle Airport rather than Uber/Lyft since the taxi was actually a little cheaper (53 Euros versus 55 Euros) and more convenient to find at the airport. The taxi driver was German who spoke a little French and English. My French is still limited, so we used a mixture of French and English to communicate. It was fun. Since it was after rush hour, the trip to the hotel only took about an hour.

I’m staying in an AirBnB flat for the next month until I find a more permanent place to live. The AirBnB is a quaint flat in a quaint building with a quaint courtyard. I really like the place. There are grocery stores and multiple metro stops within a five minute walking distance from the flat.

And the first place I visited was my literal and figurative happy place: Place du Tertre. My first visit was in eighth grade on a school history trip of Western Europe. I fell in love with the plaza and have visited it almost every time I’ve been to Paris. It’s a great place to sit-down, eat some good food, and watch people pass by. Most of the cafes around the plaza have been there since my first trip to the plaza (a long time ago – decades!?!?). Time seems to stand still for me here. It feels as much like the 1920s as the 2020s. The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur is right next door to the plaza. Both spots are on top of the hill, Montmartre, which overlooks Paris.

Place du Tertre

As I travel around Paris, I am amazed how familiar Paris feels. It doesn’t feel foreign at all to me. Yes, I’ve visited Paris about 25 times over my life, but the sights, sounds, and even smells feel like home. We’ll see how my feelings change over time as I experience more and more of the city.

What a wonderful first day in Paris. I am looking forward to my adventures of finding a permanent place to live, start french classes in the next few weeks, decide on which church to attend, and get involved in the swing dance scene. Wish me “bonne chance” (“good luck”)!

Until we meet in Paris…